Tagged “holiday”

Yesterday I took the short bus trip from Marbella to Málaga for the day. I’d visited Seville a few years back and thought it was high time I checked out another of Andalusia’s big cities.

Having walked from the bus station to Avenida de Andalucia, my first port of call was the Atarazanas food market. It’s a stunning building with a glass roof supported by an intricate iron structure, and a large stained glass window at one end. There’s a vast array of vegetables, fish, meat and more on offer at 250 colourful stalls. It was bustling and full of life. On my way back home after I’d built up an appetite, I grabbed a seat just outside the building and enjoyed one plate of fried fish and another of lightly fried aubergine with honey, washed down with a beer. ¡Qué rico!

Next, I ventured across Alameda Principal and past Parque de Malaga down to the marina. After a 10 minute walk past waterfront restaurants and bars I arrived at The Pompidou Centre. Their temporary exhibition was called Place-ness. I found it really interesting. It aimed to show how historical events, politics, economic models and technological change can affect our perceptions of places. People from the country and the city are ascribed different status. Industrialisation (cars, motorways) results in non-places – purely functional zones such as airports and refugee camps that might evoke standardisation or dehumanisation. The works in the exhibition “invite us to change our perspective to consider these spaces as interdependent rather than static”.

As I walked toward the historic centre for a good old wander, I was then struck by a stunning view of the Alcazaba, a Moorish medieval fortress on a hill, overlooking the sea. With a bit more time, fairer weather and some company I would have gone for a visit… but I’ll leave that til next time.

Our 2024 Christmas present to each other was to take advantage of cheap winter flights and go somewhere we’d never been for a weekend. We settled on Venice and I’m so glad we did.

We stayed at The Venice Times hotel which was a great choice – well located near Santa Lucia station at the north-west of the island city and friendly, quiet and cosy. It was a little cold while we were there as we’d expected but the sun still shone most of the time and it was warm enough for us to occasionally sit by the Grand Canal to enjoy a spritz or glass of wine.

Among the highlights of our trip were:

• Lunch at Osteria alle Testiere
• The Peggy Gugenheim Collection
• Seeing and hearing Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons played live by string ensemble Interpreti Veneziani at Chiesa San Vidal
• Rialto fish market
• walking the winding streets, through networks of canals
• beautiful bridges, stunning views and the occasional boat-bus
• Ritaridiente mezcal cocktail at Chet’s Bar, Dorsoduro

With more time we would have taken a trip to Burano. But maybe next time.

I now see why people love this part of the world. The dramatic coastline, beautiful deep blue Med, stunning buildings and balconies, incredible food scene, culture and history and buzz of activity… I could go on!

Here’s a list of some noteworthy things we did and places we visited on this amazing holiday.

I got home from Friday morning’s dog walk to find some records in the post. I’d recently deleted my Discogs wants-list having realised twenty years too late that it is far too addictive, and as a last hurrah had earmarked a last few key wants. One of those was The Blue Nile’s Tinseltown in the rain – a slice of Scottish pop perfection on Linn records – and I enjoyed a brief listen before heading back out.

It’s been great to have a change of scenery, a wee bit of sun and some downtime.

I caught up on some listening: Cillian Murphy on Desert Island Discs, Jon Ronson’s Things Fall Apart, Adam Buxton interviewing George Monbiot (I’ve since resolved to buy Monbiot’s book Regenesis) and some excellent Gilles Petersen shows, firstly in interview with Michael Franks and secondly an amazing feature on J Dilla with Pete from BBE. The latter includes a lovely old mixtape from Dilla. I love how he just roughly chopped in the main hooks of tunes in a way that’s low on polish and high on fun.

Also on the headphones were The Smile – both their 6 Music Artists in residence sessions and their new album Wall of Eyes which is great.

My book of choice during the trip was The Inner Game of Tennis by Timothy Gallwey.

As always, every day I took a long walk along the Paseo Maritimo (the promenade that looks right onto the sea, Gibraltar and Morocco in the distance). With its scenery and mix of walkers, cyclists, dogs and restaurants this walk always makes me feel relaxed and happy. A couple of the days I took a detour to Buena Vida for a tasty breakfast wrap and coffee. There’s a Scottish guy working there – he’s from Shetland if memory serves me rightly.

After my daily walk I enjoyed chilling on the balcony and occasionally even snuck in a wee afternoon glass of vino while listening to some music. Ain’t gonna lie – that is a nice way to relax on your holiday.

When hanging out in the apartment on my own at night I watched The Creator which was fun, a bit of Curb your enthusiasm (final season) and some Shogun.

Food-wise, when on my own I kept it simple with dinners at Venta las Pacos – they do stuff like Supa de Mariano and pepper steak with chips. It’s cheap as chips and full of locals arriving post-work. Cibo is also decent, the Hamberguesa Casera at Asador Nagüeles is banging and there’s a wee joint (name escapes me) near the harbour where I had a cheap but perfect morning coffee and croissant and could just enjoy watching people pass by going about their business.

Once Mark arrived we took a walk into the old town and, during a downpour, decided to try Restaurante El Cortijo. They make it clear from their signage outside that they serve authentic Andalusian food and “no tapas, pizza or pasta!!!”. And it was great. We had monkfish clams with prawns in an almond (almost curry-like) sauce – the owner’s great grandma’s recipe, washed down with beautiful Tempranillo wine. With the weater atrocious we decided to also treat ourselves to dessert: Home made apple cake, and crème brûlée. I’ll be back!

Clair was next to arrive. The three of us paid a visit to the Trocadero for late lunch. We had delicious clams, chicken salad and even curry, with a glass of Marques de Riscal Verdejo which definitely hit the spot. It’s a great place.

On the Sunday three of us visited Kala Kuala Chiringuito in San Pedro for another seafood special – more clams, this time with paella. It was then the long-ish walk home along the Paseo Maratimo where we were merry enough to belt out a Pet Shop Boys medley, taking especial pleasure in saying “Che Guevara and Debussy to a disco beat” in the style of Neil Tennant. We stopped in at Victors beach bar where DJ Luis was playing Kerri Chandler (I could recognise those beats from half a mile off!) and we got talking to him and his Londoner friend (another Laurence). That was a great wee vibe. To finish the night we played pool at That’s Life and did Scotland proud by emerging victorious over our Spanish rivals.

After Mark had left, Clair wanted to scratch her itch for Chinese food and we had a lovely meal at Hong Kong restaurant.

Last thing to mention is that I am gradually learning more Spanish. I’m gonna keep going and see how far I can get. Vamos!

Prior to Christmas we’d been talking about giving ourselves the present of a trip to London. However the train prices were pretty offensive so we opted for a different type of weekend trip – one that was rural, cosy and Rudy-friendly.

My folks haven’t managed a holiday outside of Scotland in a long time. So it’s been nice to spend a week together in Spain.

Me, Clair and Rudy just enjoyed a lovely weekend break. We stayed at Drinkbetween cottage on Banchory Farm. While only 70 minutes drive from home it provided some lovely countryside isolation, with the bonus of nice nearby towns to visit nearby too.

During a recent November week off I enjoyed a first visit to North Berwick. It’s a beautiful seaside town and I was lucky enough to get lovely cold-but-sunny winter weather.

Like most folks we didn’t holiday abroad during 2020 and 2021, when COVID was at its height. Trips abroad are a luxury and privilege so this was no hardship. However I’ll admit that once restrictions were lifted and things felt safer, we were pretty excited to head for some sun and good food, and set our sights on a first trip together to the south of France.